🕸️Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) 🕸️

About the Store

Do you really handmake all your products?

Yes! All enclosures, playgrounds, and decor are handmade in-house. I use a combination of hot glue, aquarium-safe adhesive, and a non-toxic glass-like resin sealant (similar to food-safe epoxy) for durability and aesthetics. For enclosures, I use acrylic enclosures and some small parts, like hides or platforms, may be pre-ordered in 3D printed form and finished by hand.

What materials do you use? Are they safe for spiders?

Absolutely — safety is a top priority. I use:

• Non-toxic adhesives and finishes 
• Craft moss that is undyed, unscented, and chemical-free for a natural, fluffy look
• Plastic-safe decor, cork bark, and other spider-friendly elements

Everything is tested with Phidippus jumpers in mind (no bioactive materials or high-moisture components are used unless stated).

Are the playgrounds fragile?

Because each playground is handcrafted, some decorative pieces (like tiny platforms, bridges, or sticks) may be delicate. Please only handle them by the base log or platform — avoid grabbing by the top or detailed parts.

If something breaks off:
No worries! These are designed to be easily repaired with hot glue or any safe adhesive. It’s part of the charm (and reality) of handmade spooder furniture — breakage is rare but not unusual during handling or transit.

How is shipping handled?

All items are packed with care using recyclable or reusable materials. Orders ship via USPS or UPS within 2–4 business days, and you’ll receive tracking as soon as they’re on the way.

What’s your return policy?

Returns are accepted on unused, non-custom items within 14 days of delivery.

• If your item arrives damaged, please contact me within 3 days with a photo, and I’ll help make it right.
• Return shipping is the buyer’s responsibility unless the issue was my mistake.

Playgrounds and decor may vary slightly from photos due to the handmade nature of each piece.

Do you sell live jumping spiders?

Not yet — but I plan to in the future! Right now, I focus on creating fun, safe, and enriching homes for your spooders. When live spiders become available, there will be detailed policies on shipping, care, and safe arrival.

Do you sell bioactive enclosures?

No. I currently offer non-bioactive setups only. Non-bioactive are just fine for Phidippus regius and related species that thrive in drier, simpler environments. That said, many regals prefer bioactive environments and may be more active and relaxed in them. Species like Hyllus diardi, P. bahamensis, and P. fartilis do best in full bioactive enclosures with higher humidity and live plants to maintain moisture.

Jumping Spider 101

What size enclosure should I get for my jumping spider?

For adult Phidippus species like P. regius, a 4x4x6 inch vertical enclosure is a solid minimum. Some keepers go up to 4x4x8 inches, but anything too large can stress them out. For juveniles and slings, smaller enclosures like 2x2x4, 3x3x6, or ventilated deli cups are better. They need good airflow and secure lids — they’re escape artists!

Do I need to mist the enclosure? How much humidity do they need?

Yes. Daily misting is important. Lightly mist one corner or a side wall, not the spider or the whole enclosure. We have mini plastic spray bottles in our beginners kit. 

• General humidity: 50–60% is ideal for Phidippus species
• During molt: increase to around 65–70% to help with shedding
  Let the enclosure dry out between mistings to avoid mold. Use a hygrometer to monitor levels, and add clean, reptile-safe moss if you live in a dry area.

How often should I feed my jumping spider?

• Slings: every 2–3 days
• Juveniles: 2–3 times a week
• Adults: once or twice a week (sometimes every 10 days)

Feed only 1–2 prey items each time. Don’t overfeed (large, swollen abdomens increase the risk of ruptures from falls).

What feeder insects should I use?

• Fruit flies: for slings and small juveniles
• Small crickets: banded crickets are best
• Bottle fly spikes: great for adults (can buy from bigfatphids)
• Mealworms: use only occasionally (high in fat); monitor them closely so they don’t burrow or hurt your spider.

Why isn’t my spider eating?

Common reasons:

• Pre-molt (they often stop eating days before shedding)
• Stress from a new enclosure or handling
• Prey is too big or inactive
• Cold temperatures

If the spider has a webbed-up hammock and is hiding, it's likely preparing to molt. Don’t disturb it.

Can I handle my jumping spider?

Yes, if they’re comfortable with it. Let them come to you. Sit on a soft surface, avoid sudden movements, and never force it. Don’t handle during or right after a molt, and always wash your hands before and after.

Do I need substrate?

No substrate is required for P. regius and similar species unless you want a bioactive enclosure. You can use paper towel, craft mesh, fake moss, or bare-bottom setups for easy cleaning. Decor like bark, fake leaves, or moss is great for webbing. If using natural elements, watch for mold or mites.

How can I tell if my spider is male or female?

Look for these signs:

• Males: swollen pedipalps (look like little boxing gloves), leaner build
• Females: rounder body, thin pedipalps
  The best method is checking a fresh molt — females have visible reproductive structures (epigynum) near the belly slit; males do not.

What should I do if my spider is stuck in a molt?

Raise the humidity to 65–70% and do not disturb unless the spider is visibly stuck for hours. If needed, use a damp Q-tip to gently help (but only if you're confident). Most spiders recover fine if left to rest afterward.