Spooder Care 101

🕷 🕸Jumping Spider Care 101 🕸🕷

This guide is designed for Regal jumping spiders and other commonly kept Phidippus species like P. audax, otiosus, texanus, mystaceus, clarus, apacheanus, and purpurtus. It does not apply to species like Hyllus diardi, P. bahamensis, P. fartilis or others, which often do best in bioactive enclosures with higher humidity and warmer conditions. I included a chart below to help:

Common Phidippus Species (Same and/or mildly similar care as P. regius):

Enclosure Sizing

While there’s no universal agreement on the “perfect” enclosure size for jumpers, here’s a good rule of thumb: tall, secure, and not too large.

Adults: A commonly recommended minimum for adult Phidippus is 4x4x6 inches, vertically oriented. Some keepers go up to 4x4x8 inches, but anything larger may stress the spiders out and make hunting/ web-building more difficult. You will know if your jumper is too stressed if they are not active in there. 

Juveniles: For juveniles, smaller enclosures such as 4x4x4 3x3x6, or sometimes, even small deli cups may work (e.g., 2x2x4 inch) as long as they have good cross ventilation. 

Slings: For slings (spiderlings), deli cups are preferred because they’re easy to ventilate and monitor. A typical size could be around 2oz to 4oz cups, depending on the size of the sling. For ventilation, make lots of small holes for airflow—on the sides and lid. Each hole size should be no larger than 0.5 mm (about the size of a sewing needle) to prevent escapes (they are master escapers). If you do not have a machine to poke holes, a thumbtack or heated pin works well for this.

What to include: A secure lid (they will escape if given the chance); Cross ventilation (sides or top and bottom); Climbing and webbing surfaces like cork bark, leaves, or mesh. I recomment a hydrometer to monitor the temperature and humidity. 

Tip: Vertical space is more important than floor space—jumpers prefer to web and hang near the top. 

Temperature & Humidity

Jumping spiders do best in room temperature conditions (a hydrometer helps you track this).

• Ideal range: 72–80°F (22–27°C)
• Nighttime drop to around 68°F is fine
• If your home drops lower, use a space heater or heat lamp near (not on) the enclosure — avoid heat mats

Humidity should stay around 50–60%. These spiders don’t need a humid or damp environment, but they do benefit from the occasional misting.

• Lightly mist the enclosure every 2–3 days
• Mist a corner or side wall, not the spider or the whole enclosure
• Let it dry completely between mistings to avoid mold or stress

Tip: In dry climates, if you struggle to trap humidity in your enclosure, some non-dyed, non-toxic moss could help. You can find some by looking up moss for reptiles. 

Feeding Schedule

Jumping spiders are visual, active hunters, and they’ll often pounce on anything that moves — even if they’re already full. Many will keep eating as long as prey is available, so it’s your job to prevent overfeeding. Overfeeding leads to swollen abdomens, which increases the risk of rupture from falls or mild trauma. Similarly, a spider with an overfilled belly is more vulnerable during molting and daily movement. 

Feeding depends on age, size, and molt status.

• Slings: Feed every 2–3 days with small prey like fruit flies (D. melanogaster)
• Juveniles: Feed 2–3 times per week
• Adults: Feed 1–2 times per week. Sometimes, you can even every 1.5 weeks. Older spiders metabolism slows down, and you do not want to overfeed. 

Each feeding should involve only one or two prey items, no bigger than the spider’s body. If they don’t eat within 24 hours, remove the prey. They prefer alive and moving prey (they are visual hunters), but in times of need or for smaller jumpers, you may need to crush the head of the cricket/mealworm and hand feed. Refer to this guide by Roe Morgan: 

Good feeder options:

• Fruit flies (for slings and juveniles)
• Small crickets (banded crickets are the best as their bodies are soft
• Blue or green bottle fly spikes (can be purchased at bigfatphids) 
• Mealworms as treats, but should not be the only food in their diet as they are high in fat. 

Tip: Potentially avoid mealworms unless you have a feeding dish that doesn't allow them to escape. If so, it is still important to monitor them—they can burrow and sometimes harm your jumper later on. Avoid prey that is too large or aggressive. 

Cleaning

Jumping spiders are fairly tidy animals, but their enclosures still need light, regular maintenance to stay healthy. That said, too much cleaning — or the wrong kind — can cause stress or even disrupt important behaviors like webbing or molting.

How often to clean:

• Can spot-clean every other week (but remove jumping spiders left-over food within 24 hours). 
• Deep clean only as needed (e.g. after mold, pest issues, or old webbing buildup). 
• Don’t clean during a molt, wait until your spider is active and feeding again. I like to take them out to play on one of my playgrounds to keep them preoccupied while I clean their enclosures. 

What to clean (and how):

Uneaten prey: Remove any dead or uneaten bugs within 24 hours and use soft-tipped tweezers or a cotton swab to lift them out gently.

Waste spots: Jumping spider poop looks like small white or gray splatters, usually in the corners. Wipe with a damp paper towel or Q-tip (no chemicals!). If it’s dry and crusted, use warm water to soften it first. 

Webbing: Only remove webbing if it’s excessive, blocking ventilation, or trapping debris. Never disturb a molting hammock!! Spiders rely on these for safety and orientation. After a molt, it's fine to gently remove old webbing if the spider has moved on and found a new silk retreat. Give it at least a week or two after the molt, I find they may go back to it after trying out a few other areas first. 

Substrate (if you use any): Paper towel or craft mesh: replace every 2–4 weeks. Natural decor (like bark or leaves): check for mold or mites; swap out if needed. Bare-bottom setups are easiest to maintain and are just fine for most Phidippus. 

Important cleaning tips: Never use soap or chemical cleaners inside the enclosure (they are toxic). Avoid full enclosure swaps unless necessary as jumping spiders build up a scent and spatial memory in their home. If rehousing, use a clean backup container to transfer your spider safely while you clean (or put them in a playground for some enrichment!). 

Tip: Clean gently, slowly, and when your spider is least active. If your spider seems stressed (bolting, jumping, hiding suddenly), give it a break and try again later.

Instars & Molting

Jumping spiders grow by molting, which means they shed their exoskeleton as they move through stages called instars. Each molt is a vulnerable and important time, and knowing what to expect can help you avoid mistakes that harm your spider. Understanding what stage your spider is in helps you adjust care, predict size changes, and recognize signs of molting.

What is an instar? 

An instar is the stage between molts. Most Phidippus species (like regius and audax) go through about 8 to 9 instars before becoming fully grown adults. The exact number can vary slightly by individual, sex, and environmental conditions. Females often have more molts than males (sometimes one extra instar). Some males mature earlier (around instar 7 or 8) while females may go through 9 or more. See below for more info: 

Tip: Slings and juveniles molt more often than adults, sometimes every few weeks. Adults may only molt once more or stop molting entirely.

Sexing

Sexing jumping spiders means identifying whether your spider is male or female. This can help with enclosure planning, breeding decisions, and understanding behavior. In Phidippus regius and related species, sex differences become clearer as they approach adulthood. By instar 6 or 7, physical differences between males and females begin to appear. These differences become very clear after the ultimate molt, but experienced keepers can usually tell a bit earlier.

Here’s what to look for:

Tip: In P. regius, mature males often have a sleeker, more angular look; females appear more robust and "fluffy."

How to Sex Using a Molt (Most Accurate Method)

Examining a fresh molt is the most reliable way to determine sex — even before it’s visible to the naked eye. Here’s how:

What You Need: A recent molt (ideally within 24 hours so it’s not too brittle); Bright light or a magnifying lens (or a phone camera + zoom)

Steps: 1) Carefully remove the molt after the spider has left the hammock. 2) Lay it flat, belly side up. 3) Locate the epigastric furrow — this is a small slit or opening near the top of the abdomen. youll see two dark spots or a slit (the start of an epigyne) in females, and smooth bellies with no slits or structures in males. 

For males, you may also see swelling in the pedipalp casings in the molt — a sign that the “boxing gloves” are forming.

Tip: If the molt is too small to tell, wait until the next one — it becomes much more obvious with each instar.

⚠️ Common Issues⚠️

Even though jumping spiders are relatively hardy, there are a few problems that new keepers commonly encounter. The key is early observation and knowing how to adjust their care environment without overreacting.

1. Refusing Food: Possible causes are premolt (most common); Prey too large or inactive; Stress from recent rehouse or change; Cold temperatures. Uncommon issues are bad molts where sadly, sometimes spooders insides might 

What to do: Don’t intervene during molt unless it’s clearly stuck for hours with visible distress; Improve enclosure humidity and climbing anchor points; Let the spider rest even if the molt looks messy — many recover just fine. 

• Uncommon issues include complications from a bad molt — in rare cases, a spider’s internal structures might rupture or become exposed during or after a failed shed. This is especially risky for slings, whose bodies are delicate and still developing. Sadly, when this happens, it’s usually not something that can be treated at home, and the spider may not survive.

📝 Tip: As a last resort, if my spider hasn’t eaten for an extended period and I’ve ruled out premolt or environmental stress, I’ll move it into a small, clean deli cup with proper ventilation. This helps eliminate distractions and makes it easier to observe whether it will respond to food. I’ll place a small prey item inside to see if the spider is willing to eat in a calmer setting. If that doesn’t work, I’ll prepare a very diluted honey or sugar water solution and apply a small amount to a Q-tip. I’ll gently place the tip near the spider’s face so that its pedipalps come into contact with it. Once the pedipalps touch the liquid, the spider usually recognizes it as a drinkable source and may begin to drink. If hydration doesn’t seem to help, another option is to crush a small cricket or mealworm and use a Q-tip to dab a bit of the exposed insides near the spider’s mouth. This sometimes encourages them to feed when they’re too weak or uninterested in live prey.

2. Curled Legs / Lethargy

Possible causes: Dehydration; Stress; Illness or poor molt

What to do: Lightly mist one wall of the enclosure; Offer water via droplet on a brush or wall; If unresponsive after 24 hours, consider rehousing, checking for molt issues, or reflecting on whether there were any insect repellent sprays in your household or building. 

3. Stuck in Molt

Possible causes: Low humidity; Disturbance during molt; Weak or unstable hammock

What to do: Don’t intervene during molt unless it’s clearly stuck for hours with visible distress. Improve enclosure humidity and climbing anchor points. Let the spider rest even if the molt looks messy (many recover just fine). 

Tip: Some sling losses are sadly unavoidable, even in perfect conditions. You may take a wet Q-tip and try to nudge the exoskeleton off of the spider. In these cases, it's easy for spiders to lose a few legs. Don't worry, they will grow them back (if they have molts left). If not, you may have to help the spider with feeding and water the rest of their adulthood. 

4. Mold or Mites in Enclosure

Possible causes: Over-misting; Poor ventilation; Leaving uneaten prey too long

What to do: Spot-clean moldy areas with a Q-tip; If mold spreads or mites appear, rehouse into a clean container; Improve cross-ventilation and reduce misting frequency

5. Burst Abdomen (Overfeeding or Fall)

Why it happens: Abdomen is overfilled or swollen; Spider falls from height; Sharp decor or enclosure surface

Prevention: Do not overfeed (watch belly size using the chart!). Avoid glass or hard plastic decor at the bottom. Handle close to soft surfaces only, and use grippy materials for climbing. 

📝 Jumping spiders can’t regulate their food intake. It’s up to you to prevent overfeeding.

Handling Tips

Jumping spiders are intelligent and curious, but they’re also tiny and fragile. Some will become comfortable interacting with you over time, while others may prefer to be left alone—and that’s perfectly okay. Handling is not necessary to build trust, but if you choose to try, it’s important to let the spider take the lead.

I never force a spider out of its enclosure or onto my hand. Instead, I let it walk onto me voluntarily. When they’re still adjusting to their new environment, it often takes a week or two before they’ll even consider coming out—and longer still before they’re confident enough to jump on your finger. The best approach is to calmly place your finger in front of them where they’re already exploring. Don’t rush the process. If you’re patient, it will happen naturally. One of the best ways to build trust faster is by hand-feeding. When a spider begins to associate your presence with food instead of fear, it will usually become much more relaxed around you.

When it’s time to return the spider to its enclosure, gently guide it back by placing your hand near the entrance. Avoid sudden movements or trying to pick it up from above.

Before handling, always wash your hands thoroughly using unscented, non-toxic soap. Make sure there’s no residue or debris left on your skin—spiders often clean their feet by touching their mouthparts, so any chemicals or dirt can be harmful. I recommend sitting on the floor or a soft surface like a bed while handling. Jumping spiders can leap unexpectedly, especially when startled, and even a short fall from a high surface can be fatal.

If you need to remove the spider urgently—such as for enclosure cleaning—you can gently coax it out using a soft brush, straw, or your hand. Move slowly and carefully to avoid spooking them.

When Not to Handle: There are also times when handling should be avoided. Never handle your spider during or just before a molt, while it’s hiding in its hammock, or right after it’s been rehoused. You should also avoid handling if your hands are cold, sweaty, or shaking, as this can make the experience stressful or unsafe for the spider.

Some other good habits include avoiding lotions, oils, or strong scents on your hands, and always washing your hands again after handling. If the spider is being uncooperative or needs to be moved safely, a catch cup is a much better tool than chasing it around. And remember: some spiders just don’t enjoy handling—and that’s completely fine. Often, watching your spider explore its enclosure and interact with its environment is just as rewarding. Respect their pace and comfort level.

Tip: Watching your spider explore its enclosure is often more rewarding than handling. Respect their pace :)

I know this was a lot of information, and you don't have to remember it all right away. If you have any questions, please reach out to me through email (waldjordun@gmail.com). Getting a new spood takes one step at a time!